Connecting regulator parts

Lighting, filtration etc
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seiji64
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Connecting regulator parts

Post by seiji64 »

So I am finally setting up my GLA regulator that I got last year and had a couple questions.

The regulator accidentally shipped without bubble counters and they were leter sent separately. First question is how tightly should I screw on the bubble counter base to the needle valve? I don't want to strip the needle valves. Also I didn't get any sealer with the counters. Am I ok going without?

Second question: I've got a dual outlet off the solenoid along with 2 needle valves connected. Is it ok to completely close off one of the needle valves? I vaguely recall folks saying you could mess up the needle valve by completely closing it.

Thanks,
Doug
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jcali10
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Post by jcali10 »

I'm no expert on regulator assembly, but I would be careful not to tighten it too much. Clippard recommends for #10-32 threaded fittings, no more than 9 inch pounds of torque to seal when using a gasket. You can probably do that with your fingers. You don't need to wrench it on. When I built my regulator I used some pipe joint compound, the non hardening type, for the non-gasket joints, which you can pick up at any hardware store.

2nd Quest. I don't think you can harm a needle valve by having it opened or closed. It's a valve and that's what it does.
I've heard you should keep keep your CO2 tank either all the way open or all the way closed.
Joe
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SCMurphy
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Post by SCMurphy »

After you assemble the parts don't forget to test for leaks with a little soapy water. This works best when attached to the CO2 cylinder and the is system pressurized.

Be gentle with the needle valve, if you close it all the way go slowly and gently so you know when to stop turning. You don't want to mash the needle and distort it's shape. It is probably better to leave it open just a bit and use a piece of hose to a cheaper shut off valve or tubing crimp. Needle valves are not great at shutting off flow, they are great at controlling reduced flow.
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krisw
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Post by krisw »

Agreed, over tightening can damage the needle valve. Normally, you get a plug and screw that into the manifold, removing the needle valve altogether. If you're just looking for a short-term solution, however, Sean's suggestion sounds like the best way to go.
seiji64
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Location: Takoma Park

Post by seiji64 »

Thanks for all the info. The bubble counter connections with the needle valves passed the soapy water test, so I think I'm ok although I don't think I needed to tighten those connections as much as I did. :? I used a wrench on it before you all posted answers.

I tightened the unused needle valve very gently and will look into a cheap valve to shut it off completely.

The issue I am seeing now is I am getting a bubble every 2-3 seconds after the solenoid is shut off. Even hours later, so I don't think it is residual pressure. Do you think there is debris in the solenoid? Any tricks to fix it?

Thanks again,
Doug
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SCMurphy
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Post by SCMurphy »

seiji64 wrote: The issue I am seeing now is I am getting a bubble every 2-3 seconds after the solenoid is shut off. Even hours later, so I don't think it is residual pressure. Do you think there is debris in the solenoid? Any tricks to fix it?
Why worry about it, if nothing else is leaking that bubble every 3 seconds won't hurt anything. I have never used a solenoid as part of my CO2 systems.
"したくさ" Sean

Aquascape? I'm a crypt farmer.

If you've got bait, I've got wasabi!

I wish I could be like Mr. Sarcastic when I grow up! ;)
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