{"id":78,"date":"2008-02-29T16:16:18","date_gmt":"2008-02-29T20:16:18","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/gwapa.org\/wordpress\/?page_id=78"},"modified":"2013-04-09T07:03:57","modified_gmt":"2013-04-09T11:03:57","slug":"algae-in-the-planted-aquarium","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/gwapa.org\/wordpress\/articles\/algae-in-the-planted-aquarium\/","title":{"rendered":"Algae in the Planted Aquarium"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><em>Assembled by Kris Weinhold<\/em><\/p>\n<h3>Table of Contents<\/h3>\n<p><a onclick=\"javascript:window.location.hash='#intro';\" href=\"javascript:void(null);\">Introduction<\/a><br \/>\n<a onclick=\"javascript:window.location.hash='#blackbrush';\" href=\"javascript:void(null);\">Black Brush\/Beard <em>(Rhodophyta)<\/em><\/a><br \/>\n<a onclick=\"javascript:window.location.hash='#diatoms';\" href=\"javascript:void(null);\">Brown Algae (<em>Diatoms<\/em>)<\/a><br \/>\n<a onclick=\"javascript:window.location.hash='#bga';\" href=\"javascript:void(null);\">Blue Green (<em>Cyanobacteria<\/em>)<\/a><br \/>\n<a onclick=\"javascript:window.location.hash='#cladophora';\" href=\"javascript:void(null);\">Cladophora<\/a><br \/>\n<a onclick=\"javascript:window.location.hash='#fuzz';\" href=\"javascript:void(null);\">Fuzz Algae<\/a><br \/>\n<a onclick=\"javascript:window.location.hash='#greendust';\" href=\"javascript:void(null);\">Green Dust Algae (GDA)<\/a><br \/>\n<a onclick=\"javascript:window.location.hash='#greenspot';\" href=\"javascript:void(null);\">Green Spot (<em>Choleochaete orbicularis<\/em>)<\/a><br \/>\n<a onclick=\"javascript:window.location.hash='#greenwater';\" href=\"javascript:void(null);\">Green Water (<em>Euglaena<\/em>)<\/a><br \/>\n<a onclick=\"javascript:window.location.hash='#hair';\" href=\"javascript:void(null);\">Hair\/Thread Algae<\/a><br \/>\n<a onclick=\"javascript:window.location.hash='#staghorn';\" href=\"javascript:void(null);\">Staghorn (Compsopogon sp.)<\/a><\/p>\n<p><a name=\"intro\"><\/a><\/p>\n<h3>Introduction<\/h3>\n<p>Every aquarium keeper has likely had to deal with an algae problem. In a planted aquarium, an even more complex set of variables can easily go out of whack, and end in a sad algae state. I\u00e2\u20ac\u2122ve combined information from a few different websites, added some personal experience, and have hopefully assembled a complete reference for the most common types of algae seen in the planted aquarium, along with their causes and cures.<\/p>\n<h3><a title=\"blackbrush\" name=\"blackbrush\"><\/a>Black Brush\/Beard <em>(Rhodophyta)<\/em><\/h3>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Black Brush\/Beard Algae\" src=\"http:\/\/gwapa.org\/articles\/algae\/images\/brush.jpg\" width=\"500\" height=\"330\" border=\"1\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Black brush, or <em>BBA, <\/em>algae can be one of a number of specific genera of \u00e2\u20ac\u0153red\u00e2\u20ac\u009d algae in the <em>Rhodophyta<\/em> family. Most of the algae in this family are actually marine, but a few freshwater species exist that particularly target our planted aquariums. This algae may be black, brown, red, or green in coloration, and can quickly coat your plants and hardscape if not kept in check.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Cause:<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">Nutrient Imbalance<\/span> &#8211; potentially excess N, P, Fe. Strive for the following nutrient levels: N (10-20ppm), P (0.5-2ppm), K (10-20ppm), Ca (10-30ppm), Mg (2-5ppm), Fe (.1ppm).<\/li>\n<li><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">Low pH<\/span><em> &#8211; <\/em>Neil Frank observes that African Rift tanks never have BBA. It\u00e2\u20ac\u2122s believed that BBA thrives in acidic environments, which is unfortunately what most plants prefer.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Cure:<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">Increase CO2<\/span> &#8211; This will stimulate plant growth, which should help the plants out-compete the algae for resources.<\/li>\n<li><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">Excel\/H202 treatment<\/span> &#8211; Use a syringe to spot treat problem areas. Then manually remove when BBA turns grey\/white.<\/li>\n<li><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">Manual removal<\/span> &#8211; Use toothbrush to remove as much as possible.<\/li>\n<li><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">Bleach treatment<\/span> &#8211; Dip affected hardscape items\/hardy plants in a bleach\/water solution using a 1:20 ratio of bleach to water. Before putting them back into the tank, make sure the item is free of bleach odor.<\/li>\n<li><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">OxiClean treatment<\/span> &#8211; Dip affected hardscape items in a OxiClean solution, making sure you only use the original OxiClean with no other additives.<\/li>\n<li><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">Maintain proper water change\/dosing schedule<\/span> &#8211; weekly \/ bi-weekly changes.<\/li>\n<li><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">Algae Crew<\/span> &#8211; Siamese Algae Eaters (SAE) and Amano shrimp are known to eat this algae.<\/li>\n<li><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">Copper<\/span> (not recommended) &#8211; There are commercial algaecides containing copper that will kill BBA, but they will mostly likely also kill your plants.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3><a title=\"diatoms\" name=\"diatoms\"><\/a>Brown Algae (Diatoms)<\/h3>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Diatom Algae\" src=\"http:\/\/gwapa.org\/articles\/algae\/images\/diatom.jpg\" border=\"1\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Brown Algae, or diatoms, often present themselves as a brown, muddy, muck that covers plant leaves and hardscape items. It is rare to be seen in a fully established aquarium.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Causes:<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">Newly setup tank<\/span> &#8211; Aquariums that have just been setup seem to be prone to diatom algae.<\/li>\n<li><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">Excess nutrients<\/span> &#8211; Silica in particular appears to be a trigger. Contact your water utility company for a report detailing silica concentrations in your water supply.<\/li>\n<li><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">Possibly old bulbs<\/span> &#8211; Sometimes, old bulbs can encourage the conditions for diatom algae.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Cure:<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">Time<\/span> &#8211; Allow it to use up the excess silica, and it will often disappear on its own.<\/li>\n<li><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">Manual removal<\/span> &#8211; Siphon\/scrape diatoms manually for quick removal.<\/li>\n<li><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">Algae Crew<\/span> &#8211; <em>Otocinclus<\/em> and Nerite snails are fantastic at clearing a tank of diatoms. They help with other sorts of algae as well.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3><a title=\"bga\" name=\"bga\"><\/a>Blue Green (Cyanobacteria)<\/h3>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Blue Green Algae (BGA)\" src=\"http:\/\/gwapa.org\/articles\/algae\/images\/bga.jpg\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" border=\"1\" \/><\/p>\n<p>While often referred to by aquarists as an algae, Blue Green Algae (BGA) is in fact a bacterial slime that can easily coat everything in your tank. Appearing as either a green, black, or purple coating, BGA is perhaps best known for the unique <em>earthy <\/em>smell that it has when pulled from the tank. As a nitrogen-fixing bacteria, it will fully deplete your water column of any available nitrogen.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Causes:<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">Low nitrates<\/span> &#8211; Usually present when all of the nitrogen\/nitrate has been removed from the water column. While this is a triggering condition, it is also exacerbated by the bacteria itself using any remaining nitrogen.<\/li>\n<li><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">High organics<\/span> &#8211; Overfeeding, or excess organic matter in the tank can trigger BGA.<\/li>\n<li><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">Old light bulbs<\/span> &#8211; Sometimes present when light bulbs are no longer emitting usable light. This may be more of a matter of your plants no longer being able to out-compete the bacteria.<\/li>\n<li><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">Poor water circulation<\/span> &#8211; Circulation is key in a planted aquarium so that no \u00e2\u20ac\u0153dead spots\u00e2\u20ac\u009d are present where nutrients have been used up locally, but fresh ones are not being recirculated throughout.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Cures:<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">Increase nitrates<\/span> &#8211; Dose nitrates until the concentration reaches ~5ppm.<\/li>\n<li><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">Add fast growing plants<\/span> &#8211; this helps to out-compete the algae for resources.<\/li>\n<li><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">Blackout<\/span> &#8211; BGA cannot survive without light.<\/li>\n<li><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">Excel\/H202 treatment<\/span> &#8211; Use a syringe to spot treat problem areas. Then manually remove dead patches.<\/li>\n<li><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">Erythromycin<\/span> &#8211; use antibiotics at half dosage to kill the bacteria. Mardel Labs\u00e2\u20ac\u2122 <em>Maracyn <\/em>contains erythromycin and has been used effectively without harming most plants.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3><a title=\"cladophora\" name=\"cladophora\"><\/a>Cladophora<\/h3>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Cladophora\" src=\"http:\/\/gwapa.org\/articles\/algae\/images\/cladophora.jpg\" width=\"500\" height=\"360\" border=\"1\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Cladophora is by far the toughest algae to remove from the aquarium. Forming green, tough, wool-like mats, it seems to favor intermingling itself into hairgrass, substrate, and hardscape items.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Causes:<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">Marimo Balls<\/span> &#8211; Being in the same family as these algae balls, they can sometimes introduce Cladophora to your aquarium.<\/li>\n<li><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">Healthy Conditions<\/span> &#8211; Unfortunately, Cladophora seems to favor the same healthy water conditions that your plants require.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Cure:<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">Manual removal<\/span> &#8211; Use toothbrush\/tweezers to remove as much as possible.<\/li>\n<li><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">Excel\/H202 treatment<\/span> &#8211; Use a syringe to spot treat problem areas.<\/li>\n<li><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">Luck<\/span> &#8211; Very difficult to 100% remove.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3><a title=\"fuzz\" name=\"fuzz\"><\/a>Fuzz Algae<\/h3>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Fuzz Algae\" src=\"http:\/\/gwapa.org\/articles\/algae\/images\/fuzz.jpg\" width=\"500\" height=\"352\" border=\"1\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Fuzz algae often shows up on plant leaves giving their edges a slightly fuzzy appearance.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Causes: <\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">Nutrient Imbalance<\/span> &#8211; Strive for the following nutrient levels: N (10-20ppm), P (0.5-2ppm), K (10-20ppm), Ca (10-30ppm), Mg (2-5ppm), Fe (.1ppm).<\/li>\n<li><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">Low CO2<\/span> &#8211; Strive for 20-30ppm concentration of CO2, as permitted by fauna.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Cure:<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">Maintain proper nutrient\/CO2 levels<\/span><\/li>\n<li><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">Algae Crew<\/span> &#8211; Siamese Algae Eaters (SAE), Amano shrimp, <em>Otocinclus<\/em>, and Mollys are known to eat this algae.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3><a title=\"greendust\" name=\"greendust\"><\/a>Green Dust Algae (GDA)<\/h3>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Green Dust Algae (GDA)\" src=\"http:\/\/gwapa.org\/articles\/algae\/images\/greendust.jpg\" width=\"500\" height=\"370\" border=\"1\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Green Dust Algae (GDA) is a \u00e2\u20ac\u0153dusty\u00e2\u20ac\u009d green film that appears on the surface of the glass. It\u00e2\u20ac\u2122s caused by zoo-spores, and seems to avoid attaching to hardscape items or plant leaves.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Cause:<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Unfortunately, I haven\u00e2\u20ac\u2122t been able to locate a concrete cause for GDA.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Cure:<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">Leave alone<\/span> &#8211; GDA appears to have a finite lifecycle, so that if you allow it to run full cycle without scraping it from the glass, it should harden, and fall off after roughly 21 days. After this time, scrap any remaining GDA from the glass, and do a thorough cleaning and water change.<\/li>\n<li><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">Nerite Snails<\/span> &#8211; Nerite snails can help eat through some of the GDA on the glass, but the approach above will likely have to be undergone for full removal.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3><a title=\"greenspot\" name=\"greenspot\"><\/a>Green Spot (Choleochaete orbicularis)<\/h3>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Green Spot Algae\" src=\"http:\/\/gwapa.org\/articles\/algae\/images\/greenspot.jpg\" width=\"500\" height=\"348\" border=\"1\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Green spot algae is very commonly seen on the glass of tanks when there hasn\u00e2\u20ac\u2122t been a water change in awhile, or when an inadequate fertilization scheme has been conducted. GSA also appears on long lasting leaves, such as Java Fern, Anubias, and Bolbitus.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Cause:<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">Low phosphate (PO4) levels<\/span> &#8211; almost exclusively caused when phosphate levels are depleted.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Cure:<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">Scrap glass<\/span> &#8211; Use a razor blade to most easily remove from the glass.<\/li>\n<li><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">Dose Phosphates<\/span> &#8211; Dose PO4 to a concentration of 0.5-2.0ppm.<\/li>\n<li><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">Nerite Snails<\/span> &#8211; Nerite snails can help you remove green spot from leaves, as well as, the glass.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3><strong><a title=\"greenwater\" name=\"greenwater\"><\/a>Green Water<\/strong> (<em>Euglaena<\/em>)<\/h3>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Green Water\" src=\"http:\/\/gwapa.org\/articles\/algae\/images\/greenwater.jpg\" border=\"1\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Green water is free floating single-celled euglenoid protists. It contains chlorophyll a and b, plus carotenoids, giving them their green coloration, but they are not plants. With over 40 genera of Euglenoids and over 1000 species, this form of algae is one of the most abundant forms of life on the planet, and is an essential part of the food chain. Unfortunately, aquarists don\u00e2\u20ac\u2122t want it in their tanks.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Cause:<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">Initial Setup<\/span> &#8211; Usually present shortly after an aquarium is initially setup, prior to the full establishment of the microorganisms (free-swimming plankton that feed upon it).<\/li>\n<li><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">Nutrient Imbalance<\/span> &#8211; Strive for the following nutrient levels: N (10-20ppm), P (0.5-2ppm), K (10-20ppm), Ca (10-30ppm), Mg (2-5ppm), Fe (.1ppm).<\/li>\n<li><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">Medication<\/span> &#8211; if the medicine affects the biofilter of the tank.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Cure<\/strong> :<\/p>\n<p>There are a number of cures for green water:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">Blackout<\/span> &#8211; leave the lights out, and block out any ambient light from the tank for 5 days. Your plants have reserves that the algae does not, so they will survive, but may look a little ratty for a week or so.<\/li>\n<li><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">Diatom\/Micron Filter<\/span><em> &#8211; <\/em>fine particle filters can clear the water.<\/li>\n<li><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">UV Sterilizer<\/span> &#8211; zaps the algae with ultraviolet light, clearing the water. Some reports say that UV light also affects nutrients in the water column.<\/li>\n<li><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">Flocculants<\/span> &#8211; Clumps small particles together, allowing your mechanical filtration to remove them from the water. <em>i.e. AquaClear<\/em><\/li>\n<li><em><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">Daphnia<\/span> &#8211; <\/em>Placed in a breeder net, the daphia will consume the algae.<\/li>\n<li><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">Small Water Changes<\/span> &#8211; do small (5-10%) water changes, every day until clear.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Notes:<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Avoid large water changes, as that prevents microorganisms from establishing themselves.<\/li>\n<li>In addition to the cures, make sure to identify and eliminate the source of the problem, or it may return.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3><a title=\"hair\" name=\"hair\"><\/a>Hair\/Thread Algae<\/h3>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Hair Algae\" src=\"http:\/\/gwapa.org\/articles\/algae\/images\/hair.jpg\" width=\"500\" height=\"323\" border=\"1\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Hair\/Thread Algae consists of long green filaments reaching as long as 30cm in length. It often mixes itself in among moss, and is sometimes grown purposely as an extra food supplement for tank inhabitants.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Cause:<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">Excess iron levels<\/span> &#8211; Concentrations &gt;0.15ppm<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Cure:<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">Manual removal<\/span> &#8211; Use toothbrush to remove as much as possible.<\/li>\n<li><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">Maintain proper water change schedule<\/span> &#8211; weekly \/ bi-weekly changes.<\/li>\n<li><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">Rebalance Nutrients<\/span> &#8211; Strive for the following nutrient levels: N (10-20ppm), P (0.5-2ppm), K (10-20ppm), Ca (10-30ppm), Mg (2-5ppm), Fe (.1ppm).<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3><a title=\"staghorn\" name=\"staghorn\"><\/a>Staghorn (Compsopogon sp.)<\/h3>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Staghorn Algae\" src=\"http:\/\/gwapa.org\/articles\/algae\/images\/staghorn.jpg\" width=\"500\" height=\"363\" border=\"1\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Staghorn algae is aptly named as its branching resembles the antlers of a stag\u00e2\u20ac\u2122s horns. They are coarse, branching strands that commonly attach to plant leaves and equipment. The strands can appear white, grey, or green in coloration.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Causes:<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">Nutrient Imbalance<\/span> &#8211; Strive for the following nutrient levels: N (10-20ppm), P (0.5-2ppm), K (10-20ppm), Ca (10-30ppm), Mg (2-5ppm), Fe (.1ppm).<\/li>\n<li><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">Low CO2<\/span> &#8211; Strive for 20-30ppm concentration of CO2, as permitted by fauna.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Cures:<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">Manual removal<\/span> &#8211; Use toothbrush to remove as much as possible.<\/li>\n<li><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">Water change<\/span> &#8211; Maintain weekly\/bi-weekly water change schedule.<\/li>\n<li><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">Increase CO2<\/span> &#8211; This will stimulate plant growth, which should help the plants out-compete the algae for resources.<\/li>\n<li><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">Bleach treatment<\/span> &#8211; Dip affected items\/hardy plants into a bleach\/water solution using a 1:20 ratio of bleach to water. Before putting them back into the tank, make sure the item is free of any bleach odor.<\/li>\n<li><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">OxiClean treatment<\/span> &#8211; Dip affected hardscape items in a OxiClean solution, making sure you only use the original OxiClean with no other additives.<\/li>\n<li><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">Maintain proper macro (NPK) dosing scheme<\/span><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Note:<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Most fish\/inverts will not eat staghorn algae.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h4>Sources:<\/h4>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.aquaticplantcentral.com\/forumapc\/aquarium-algae-control-specific-problems\/16162-green-dust-algae-odyssey-8.html\">Aquatic Plant Central Thread<\/a><br \/>\n<a href=\"http:\/\/aquaticplantcentral.com\/forumapc\/algaefinder.php\">Aquatic Plant Central &#8211; Algae Finder<\/a><br \/>\n<a href=\"http:\/\/aquaticscape.com\/articles\/algae.htm\">AquaticScape<\/a><br \/>\n<a href=\"http:\/\/www.malawicichlidhomepage.com\/aquainfo\/algae_peroxide.html\">Fighting Algae with Hydrogen Peroxide<\/a><br \/>\n<a href=\"http:\/\/www.skepticalaquarist.com\/docs\/algae\/tonealg.shtml\">The Skeptical Aquarist<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Assembled by Kris Weinhold Table of Contents Introduction Black Brush\/Beard (Rhodophyta) Brown Algae (Diatoms) Blue Green (Cyanobacteria) Cladophora Fuzz Algae Green Dust Algae (GDA) Green Spot (Choleochaete orbicularis) Green Water (Euglaena) Hair\/Thread Algae Staghorn (Compsopogon sp.) Introduction Every aquarium keeper has likely had to deal with an algae problem. In a planted aquarium, an even [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"parent":54,"menu_order":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","template":"","meta":{"footnotes":""},"class_list":["post-78","page","type-page","status-publish","hentry"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/gwapa.org\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/78","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/gwapa.org\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/gwapa.org\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/page"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/gwapa.org\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/gwapa.org\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=78"}],"version-history":[{"count":2,"href":"https:\/\/gwapa.org\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/78\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1466,"href":"https:\/\/gwapa.org\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/78\/revisions\/1466"}],"up":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/gwapa.org\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/54"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/gwapa.org\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=78"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}