Cleaning the Interior of a Glass Tank
Cleaning the Interior of a Glass Tank
I am having difficulty cleaning the glass on a tank. There seems to be some whitish stains on the upper couple of inches of the tank. Hard water deposits? Calcium or lime, maybe, I don't know. Probably the same kind of deposits that occurr on glass lids (which I don't use). I've tried cleaning it with Windex, Lysol bathroom cleaner, vinegar, vinegar and baking soda, and scraping with a razor blade. The vinegar and baking soda mix applied with an old tooth brush seems to work the best for me so far, but it still not totally clean and definitely not an easy chore. Does anyone have any other suggestions? Something more effective, or easier that may have worked great for you in the past. Thanks.
Joe
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ricoishere
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DonkeyFish
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CLR (Calcium Lime Rust) is another option. I've never used Lime-Away, but am pretty sure it's the same family. I use CLR all the time on my glass tops/lights/etc, works great. I use a damp/wet then rung out paper towel and put a little of the CLR on the towel and go at it that way. Then rinse well or wipe a few times with clean wet paper towels. I figure if it's safe to use on coffee pots it can't be TOO awful. So far I haven't had any problems with it and it works great.
It did not, however, help on the etching I had on a used tank I picked up. Guess it's not THAT magical.
Good luck!
It did not, however, help on the etching I had on a used tank I picked up. Guess it's not THAT magical.
Good luck!
It is not murder if you're killing snails.
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marydotson
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I'm pretty sure LimeAway is phosphoric acid. CLR is a combination of a bunch of other acids (but not phosphoric, which is why it used to be advertised as natural and implied safer--though I think they've since pulled back from that). Regardless, they are all powerful acids that work to disolve the mineral deposits adhered to the surface.
On the other hand, I believe Magic Eraser is a pumice based product, that abrasively scours the deposits off. I'd be careful to make sure it is fine enough to not scratch, though (test in a corner, perhaps).
Probably Jen, your item was probably truly etched--ie, molecules removed from the surface (as opposed to the accumulation of minerals on an undisturbed surface). It's kind of misleading when the ads say CLR helps against etching. Really, it only helps with deposits (which granted, can look exactly the same as if they were in fact etched).
The possible way to overcome etching is to polish the metal down to a smooth surface (ie, physically remove protuding molecules until there is one consistent surface layer). For this it takes a bit of elbow grease, soft polishing cloths and polishing compound. Toolbox polish (the kind sold in auto supply shops) is probably the most economical way with most metals (some contain chemicals to make metal removal easier).
If your reflector is etched or scratched, polishing may be necessary. However, there is another glitch. Cheap reflectors may only have very thin plating of reflective metal (think molecules thick). If the pitting, corrosion, etching or scratching goes beyond this, polishing won't help. You'll have to take it to an electroplating shop for replating (which might be worthwhile).
FWIW--this is a hot topic among vintage Airstream owners, which is how I became familiar with the whole concern... And since there isn't a whole lot of difference between shining a trailer and a reflector (save for the scale of operation), the same principles probably apply.
On the other hand, I believe Magic Eraser is a pumice based product, that abrasively scours the deposits off. I'd be careful to make sure it is fine enough to not scratch, though (test in a corner, perhaps).
Probably Jen, your item was probably truly etched--ie, molecules removed from the surface (as opposed to the accumulation of minerals on an undisturbed surface). It's kind of misleading when the ads say CLR helps against etching. Really, it only helps with deposits (which granted, can look exactly the same as if they were in fact etched).
The possible way to overcome etching is to polish the metal down to a smooth surface (ie, physically remove protuding molecules until there is one consistent surface layer). For this it takes a bit of elbow grease, soft polishing cloths and polishing compound. Toolbox polish (the kind sold in auto supply shops) is probably the most economical way with most metals (some contain chemicals to make metal removal easier).
If your reflector is etched or scratched, polishing may be necessary. However, there is another glitch. Cheap reflectors may only have very thin plating of reflective metal (think molecules thick). If the pitting, corrosion, etching or scratching goes beyond this, polishing won't help. You'll have to take it to an electroplating shop for replating (which might be worthwhile).
FWIW--this is a hot topic among vintage Airstream owners, which is how I became familiar with the whole concern... And since there isn't a whole lot of difference between shining a trailer and a reflector (save for the scale of operation), the same principles probably apply.
Magic Erasers are used on painted walls (among a myriad of other things). While it will eventually remove the paint of you go crazy, so would a dishrag and water. There is no pumice in them. 
They are a Melamine pad (think of a tough-fibered foam padding) infused with a funky complex polymer, Formaldehyde-Melamine-Sodium bisulfite (whatever that is, hehe).
The things really are magic. Unbelievable what they'll clean up!
They are a Melamine pad (think of a tough-fibered foam padding) infused with a funky complex polymer, Formaldehyde-Melamine-Sodium bisulfite (whatever that is, hehe).
The things really are magic. Unbelievable what they'll clean up!
Dave
